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Kenya: A Walk on the Wild Side |
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by Kevin Olson
Our driver got word from some other guides that lions were in the area, and it wasn't long before he spotted their sleek backs sticking up above the grass. Guides see things the rest of us can't. He pulled up to the pride of female lions and shut off the engine. The big cats barely moved as we approached, and they seemed oblivious to our presence. "They're used to this," said Godfrey, our guide. "But if you stepped out of the vehicle, you'd be lion lunch." The Maasai Mara, Kenya's best known game park, is teeming with wildlife, giving visitors the best chance to see big game - everything from giraffe to rhino to leopard to cheetah to zebra to gazelle to baboons and many others. The abundance of animals is incredible. Everywhere you look, in almost every direction, you'll see at least a few species of animals. In fact, when our small plane landed in the Mara, a dozen elephants were grazing just a few yards from the airstrip.
While 4 X 4s are the most common mode of transportation, you can also see wildlife on horseback and camelback, and if you're not afraid of heights, hot air balloons. Our balloon launched about a half-hour before sunrise, taking us gracefully over the unending vistas of the Mara. The water bucks, zebra and gazelle below us nervously trotted away at the sound of the balloon's burner overhead. Though we were quite a distance from the border, our view at 2,000 feet allowed us to see the hills in neighboring Tanzania. With a light breeze, the balloon touched down about 10 miles from our starting point amidst a massive herd of wildebeest and zebra, which kindly scattered as our balloon floated to the ground. From there, mini-buses transported us to an open area in the "bush" for an elegant champagne breakfast.
While western influences are creeping in, the Maasai hold tight to traditions that have endured the test of time. They are easily identifiable by their bright red garments, and colorful beads and jewelry. They're also known as fierce warriors against other tribes - which is very rare these days - and fearless when protecting their families from lions and buffalo. After more than a week in the dry grasslands of the Mara, we headed to Kenya's coast for some relaxation along the Indian Ocean. A coral reef runs 150 miles along Kenya's 300-mile coast, protecting water enthusiasts from pounding waves, and making it a paradise for divers and snorkelers. Ernest Hemmingway came often to this part of Kenya to take advantage of the excellent angling. North along the coast is the island of Lamu, where you step back in time. Since no vehicles are allowed, locals rely on the island's 3,000 donkeys for transportation and work. Streets are almost as narrow as an American sidewalk, forcing pedestrians to step aside when a donkey cart and its cargo approach from the opposite direction. I can't imagine packing in any more activities or sightseeing in the two weeks I was there, and yet, I still didn't see everything. Getting within a few yards of lions, elephants and rhinos was one of the most exciting experiences of my life. And the distinct cultures of the cities, villages, islands and tribes provided me with a new perspective I could never get anywhere else. It makes me want to return very soon. There is never a bad time to visit Kenya. Since the equator splits Kenya in two, the high temperature stays between 65-90 degrees year-round. There are two rainy seasons -November/December and April/May, which makes travel a bit difficult in the parks.
For more information on Kenya, log on to the new Web site - www.MagicalKenya.com. There's information on wildlife, nature, history, safaris and other activities and links to U.S.-based tour operators that can arrange travel packages.
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I
sat motionless, staring in awe at the sight before me. Just 15
feet away were six lions spending a lazy afternoon in the grassy
plains of the Maasai Mara. 
Covering
about a thousand square miles, the Mara is on the western edge
of Kenya. It is a continuation of the Serengeti, which lies just
over the southeastern border of Tanzania, and both parks share
the same ecosystem. August and September feature the migration
of more than a million wildebeest from the Serengeti into the
Mara in search of the best grasses for grazing. And with them
come predators, lions and leopards looking for an easy meal. 
Kenya
is exciting not only for its wildlife, but also for the wonderful
cultural experiences. With more than 40 ethnic tribes, each speaking
its own language, Kenya is rich in customs and tradition. Even
the residents of Kenya's modern capital, Nairobi, proudly identify
themselves with the tribe to which they belong. The most well-known
of Kenya's tribes to the outside world is the Maasai, the tribe
for which the Maasai Mara is named.