The Grand Canyon
 

 

 

 

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Best book to plan a
Grand Canyon visit.
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by David Henderson

Standing at the edge of the Grand Canyon, my mind overflows with wonder and questions. It's been 30 years since I was last here. A long time. And the feelings I have about this place haven't changed. Looking out at the enormity is as close to a spiritual experience as I can image.

photo by David Henderson

Why is it that so many people speak in hushed voices as they gaze out at the canyon? Have we come to a natural shrine? Why don't I come here more often to experience this view, this feeling? Why can something so huge also be so peaceful and tranquil? You have a feeling ... no kidding ... of intimacy with this canyon. You are so tiny and inconsequential in such a place. Yet, the place, itself, allows you to be a part of it. Sounds a little strange, I know, but until you go there yourself, you'll never really know.

I am here with family ... for just two days. It is not long enough to do much else besides just stand on the rim and think "WOW!" Here it is ... one of the world's great wonders ... right here in northern Arizona.

Down there ... a mile and a half away on the canyon floor ... like a tiny thread-like of silver, snakes the rushing waters of the Colorado river. People are down there right now, riding rubberized boats on the white water. They are probably screaming. No thanks ... I've done that on other, far more tame rivers.

And, over there is the famous Grand Canyon mule trail. The trail is only a couple of feet wide. You get on a mule and ride down the narrow rock-strewn trail ... down to the depths of the canyon. They say that acrophobes are discouraged from taking the rides ... the trail barely hugs the cliffs, and the drop-offs are mostly straight down, hundreds of feet. The wranglers claim never to have lost a rider on the grueling six-hour trip in the saddle. What else would they say? Once down, you gotta ride back up ... sorry, no helicopter service available to lift you out.

I'm here for the vistas ... and, they are endless. The same view looks different now than it did this morning or last evening or five minutes ago. The clouds, the light, the shadows are always shifting. After capturing the changing face of the cathedral at Rouen in numerous paintings, what would Monet have painted had he stood in this spot? What would he have thought?

Here are a few of my tips on visiting the Grand Canyon --

  • If you have a budget and/or family, stay in Williams, Arizona, about 60 miles south of the canyon. It's a dusty small historic Arizona town on Route 66 with great Mexican food (Rosa's Cantina) and fun shops.
  • Leave your car in Williams and ride the historic Grand Canyon Railway. It's just over two hours to the canyon's south rim. The train ride includes a staged Wild West gunfight outside the depot just before the 10 a.m. departure from Williams.
  • If you can get a reservation, by all means stay at the historic The El Tovar Hotel located right on the canyon's south rim. It was built in 1905 as a luxury destination for toney vacationers of the era and is not to be missed today.
  • At the very least, have lunch at The El Tavor.
  • Avoid the area around the Visitor's Center and park headquarters. I found it jammed with tour buses and anxious travelers who seemed like they just wanted to check off that they'd seen the canyon and move on.
  • If traveling by car, drive the both the West Rim Drive and the East Rim Drive.
  • Get out of your car often and take walks along the canyon rim.

On our second day at the canyon, a fierce thunderstorm blew in. We ran for cover from the lightning and found shelter on the wide verandas at The El Tavor along with many other visitors. The thunder roared and echoed through the canyon like multiple cannons. The lightning show was dangerous and spectacular. Rain poured down, followed by hail. The temperature dropped about 40 degrees. It was the best nature show ever ... and right before our eyes! Incidentally, the photo to the right was taken just as the rain stopped.

A final word ... visiting the Grand Canyon, whether with family or a significant other or by yourself, is the stuff of memories. You cannot capture it on film or a digital camera ... only in the mind's eye.

If you haven't been there, go. If you have, return.

 

Writer and BoomerCafé co-founder David Henderson
lives in Alexandria, VA.
His email is dehenderson@speakeasy.net

 

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