Victoria's Neighborhoods
by Jane Lang
On
a sparkling spring morning, you stroll a picture-perfect harbor savoring
the sights. There's the bustle of boats on the bay, the distinctive architecture
of British Columbia's Parliament Buildings and the Fairmont Empress Hotel,
and the glorious gardens and hanging baskets that add a kaleidoscope of
color to the scene. Thousands of blooms adorn nearby green spaces and
sea air tingles your nostrils, and it seems apparent that spring may be
the best of all seasons in this city by the sea. However, as eclectic
as the harbor-front is, there's more to Victoria -- visitors are wise
to treat themselves to its picturesque neighborhoods.
These vibrant villages -- some trendy, some historical -- give a backyard glimpse of life in this casual city's neighborhoods where people stroll outdoors year-round. Chinatown, for example, is a bustling Asian neighborhood right in city center. Storefronts with unusual products -- tangy spices, live seafood, abundant greens, and the likes of lichee nuts -- offer a colorful, aromatic visit to a distant land. Near the eye-catching Gate of Harmonious Interest, visit the tranquil Silk Road Aromatherapy and Tea Company where you are welcomed with a cup of tea. You can spend hours strolling Canada's oldest Chinatown, shopping for unique paraphernalia and, of course, eating. Chongqing chicken, anyone?
A little farther afield, but an easy amble from downtown, is Antique Row. Follow Fort Street east about six blocks to this much-visited neighborhood. You wander in and out of charming, musty collector-type shops with everything from 18th century furnishings and jewelry to rare silverware and books. Antique Row is perhaps a slight misnomer as, among some Tudor-style buildings, you'll also see contemporary facades, like 'The Mosaic,' a hip residential and business complex. This neighborhood is a fun mishmash. For example there's the funky Blue Fox Café as well as one of the city's favourite restaurants, Café Brio. It's the next best thing to a Tuscan visit.
Little
known by visitors but one of the locals' favorite neighborhoods is Cook
Street Village. In the south, Cook Street reaches to the ocean and fringes
Beacon Hill Par, a luxuriant parkland. The hub of Cook Street Village
is around Fairfield Avenue where tree-lined streets, many with brightly-painted,
heritage homes -- some larger ones are apartments that are popular with
students -- open to a few busy blocks where people-watching is de rigueur.
This funky, inner-city village is SO west coast. Victorians head to Moka
House to sip java, read papers and meet friends. For snacking, there're
fish and chips, sweets at Rising Star Bakery and pub fare and beer on
tap at the friendly Flying Beagle. Pop into Cook St. Village Wines where
the owner will happily introduce you to the best of BC offerings.
If one neighborhood epitomizes Victoria, it is Oak Bay Village. It has it all. An abundance of heritage homes surrounded by beauteous spring blooms, a strip of Old English storefronts, the classy Victoria Golf and Country Club, and all this slips down to an idyllic oceanfront complete with beach and marina. On a warm spring day you stroll among the cherry blossoms to shop, gallery visit or have tea. You could arrive by sailboat and start at Oak Bay Marina, and wander the waterfront to Oak Bay Beach Hotel. Don't leave without walking the gardens that stretch down to the sea. From here head uphill to the village which has a fine offering of shops -- clothing, books, antiques, handicrafts and specialty stores. Tea is served at The Blethering Place at 11 in the morning and 7:30 p.m. daily. Another spot for tea sippers is the White Heather Tea Room. It has a neighborhood feel, is bright and cheerful with fresh flowers and to-die-for shortbread.
If you arrive or depart by ferry, or if you simply wish a drive beyond the city, Sidney-by-the-Sea is a pleasant place. Near the northern tip of the Saanich Peninsula -- just before the Swartz Bay ferry terminal -- is where the cozy community of Sidney-by-the-Sea hugs the ocean. It's one of those idyllic small towns where you can easily imagine setting down roots. Bibliophiles revel in the dozens of bookstores in this community of 11,000. Do as the locals do and stroll down Beacon Avenue seeing shops along the way; stop at an Italian bakery for a sweet and café latte, then continue down to the ocean. Find a bench in the sun and enjoy.
There
are also several rites of passage that must take place on a Victoria visit.
You don't have to be a green-thumber to be enamored by the fragrant, imaginative
offerings of the world famous Butchart Gardens. Another must-visit is
one of Canada's premier museums. The Royal BC Museum is currently featuring
"Dragon Bones: When Dinosaurs Ruled China." Victoria is the
first stop in Canada for this extraordinary exhibit of unique dinosaur
fossils (March 13 to September 15). Tickets are available online at 
Discovering British
Columbia is as easy as calling toll-free 1-800-HELLO BC (from anywhere
in North America) or HELLO BC (435-5622) in Greater Vancouver. This reservation
and information service puts you in touch with a team of professional
travel experts who give free help and advice in planning or booking. You
can also order your free copy of the BC Escapes™
Getaways Guide. And be sure to check out the Tourism British Columbia
web site at
